Unveiling a New Vision: Paula Gerbase's Journey with Georg Jensen
In the world of fashion and design, creative directors often leave their mark by embracing the essence of a brand's history while infusing it with their unique vision. Paula Gerbase, the new creative director at Georg Jensen, has taken on this challenge with an archaeological approach, delving deep into the brand's archives to uncover its core values and unique identity.
A Journey into the Archives
Gerbase's immersion into Georg Jensen's history, dating back to 1904, is a fascinating starting point. Her meticulous study of techniques, her understanding of the founder, and her examination of previous designers' work showcase a dedication to preserving the brand's heritage while adding her own creative twist.
What makes this particularly intriguing is Gerbase's focus on the brand's core material: silver. Her exploration of silver wire and its use in filigree techniques, creating delicate and airy pieces, is a testament to her innovative approach.
Weft: A Collection of Movement and Fluidity
Gerbase's debut jewellery collection, Weft, is a celebration of movement and fluidity. Inspired by mid-century pieces by Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, Gerbase wanted to create a collection that challenges the recent history of Georg Jensen, known for its pure sculptural minimalism.
"Weft looks backwards, not literally, but by using core codes that have appeared throughout the brand's history." This collection is a beautiful blend of the past and present, a true testament to Gerbase's creative vision.
Craftsmanship and Discipline
The collection's meticulous construction is a nod to Gerbase's early experiences with her grandmother, who taught her the importance of discipline and patience in embroidery. This level of craftsmanship is evident in the way individual silver links are hooked together by hand, creating a sense of fragility and strength.
Gerbase's quote, "There's nowhere to hide. The pieces are entirely transparent," reflects her commitment to showcasing the beauty of the inner workings of each piece.
A Richer Legacy
Contrary to the common misconception of Georg Jensen being solely about Scandinavian minimalism, Gerbase discovered a richer, more artistic side to the brand. From ceramics with striking glazes to exquisitely crafted silver lipsticks, the archives revealed a brand that is expressive, characterful, and eccentric.
"The house's legacy extends well beyond silver," Gerbase notes, highlighting the brand's work with gold, textiles, glass, and an unexpected breadth of accessories.
Supporting the Arts
Gerbase's fashion background has influenced her approach to design, focusing on how jewellery feels on the body and the intimacy of personal space. This translates into the mobility and comfort of the Weft collection, with pieces that move with the wearer.
In today's climate, Gerbase sees supporting the arts as a responsibility, especially with public funding under pressure. As a company founded by a sculptor, Georg Jensen has a unique role to play in supporting contemporary artists and craftspeople.
A Distinctive Legacy
Gerbase is conscious of her impact on Georg Jensen's legacy. She aims to restore the brand to its rightful place as a distinctive Danish heritage house, known for its rich expression and commitment to the arts.
Her approach to finding perspective, by seeking silence and climbing mountains, is a beautiful reminder of the importance of stepping back and appreciating the clarity that comes with it.
In conclusion, Paula Gerbase's journey with Georg Jensen is a fascinating exploration of a brand's history, a celebration of craftsmanship, and a commitment to supporting the arts. Her debut collection, Weft, is a testament to her unique vision and the brand's rich legacy.
